
Tuscan Feast
Season 27 Episode 2704 | 28m 24sVideo has Closed Captions
Pollo al Mattone, wine savers, Gluten-Free Zucchini Scarpaccia
Host Julia Collin Davison makes host Bridget Lancaster Pollo al Mattone (Chicken Under a Brick). Equipment expert Hannah Crowley shares the test kitchen's favorite wine savers. And test cook Aran Goyoaga makes Gluten-Free Zucchini Scarpaccia for Julia.
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Tuscan Feast
Season 27 Episode 2704 | 28m 24sVideo has Closed Captions
Host Julia Collin Davison makes host Bridget Lancaster Pollo al Mattone (Chicken Under a Brick). Equipment expert Hannah Crowley shares the test kitchen's favorite wine savers. And test cook Aran Goyoaga makes Gluten-Free Zucchini Scarpaccia for Julia.
Problems playing video? | Closed Captioning Feedback
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Learn Moreabout PBS online sponsorship♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ -Today on "America's Test Kitchen," I make Bridget pollo al mattone, Hannah shares the test kitchen's favorite wine savers, and Aran makes me gluten-free zucchini scarpaccia.
It's all coming up right here on "America's Test Kitchen."
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♪♪ -Some people have interests or hobbies like collecting stamps or playing [Clicks tongue] golf.
My friend Julia likes two things, pickleball and roasting chicken.
A lot of chicken.
All the time chicken.
-Yep.
-We talk about roast chicken day and night.
She'll call me and talk about chicken.
-I have called you to talk about chicken.
-You have.
So what's on the menu today?
-Guess what?
I'm making you a really good chicken.
-Oh, yeah?
-Yeah, if roast chicken was a competition, this would be top of the leaderboard.
It's the Italian chicken, pollo al mattone, which means "chicken under a brick."
And it starts with butterflying the chicken.
That's how you get it pressed flat into the skillet.
-Okay.
-To cut the backbone out, it's really easy using a good pair of kitchen shears or poultry shears.
So, here's the backbone.
I'm just going to cut up one side, down the other.
Alright, now flip it over, and I'm just going to press on the breast to really flatten it.
Now to season the chicken, I'm going to take my fingers.
I'm going to loosen the skin on top of the breast and each leg.
So just using my thumb, reach down into the thigh area, the thigh drumstick.
We're going to be very specific about the salt we put in different places.
So, we're going to put salt on either breast, either leg, and on the back side, too.
So, we're going to use 3/4 teaspoon of kosher salt on each breast and each leg.
Now I'm going to work my way down to the thigh.
Now for the other side.
And I've learned the hard way, it really is better to measure the salt out into five little bowls.
And now for the back side.
This is 1 teaspoon of kosher salt.
And that is it.
-Alright.
-Time to clean up, and then we can get cooking.
-Sounds good.
♪♪ -All cleaned up.
We're ready to start cooking.
And we're going to use real bricks today.
Obviously, these aren't food-safe.
You want to wrap them in foil before they touch the chicken.
And yes, I do own bricks just for roasting chicken at home.
So, those are the bricks.
Here, I have the 12-inch oven-safe skillet, 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil.
And that's medium-high heat.
-Whoo!
-In goes the chicken, on go the bricks.
-Oh, yeah.
-Ooh-hoo-hoo.
-Alright.
We're gonna cook this for about 2 1/2 minutes.
♪♪ It's been 2 1/2 minutes, and now I'm just going to rotate the pan 180.
And this is just going to make sure that the chicken browning in the skillet is evenly done, because some stoves have hot spots and cool spots.
This just makes sure it's perfect looking.
So that's 2 1/2 minutes on this side, 5 minutes total.
♪♪ Alright.
It's been 5 minutes since this has been on the stove.
That's just to jump-start the cooking process, get a little heat into that pan.
But we're going to actually roast the chicken in the oven.
-Okay.
-400 degrees, relatively hot.
You want the middle low rack.
That way, it's closer to the bottom of the oven so that heat can concentrate on the bottom of the pan, so you get that lovely golden color.
So 20 minutes in the oven just with the bricks on it.
♪♪ -Smell it already.
-It's the smell of success, Bridget.
Alright.
Now we're going to take this out.
-Let me get that for you.
That is a workout.
-It is a workout.
I'm going to cover the handle just to remind us that it's hot.
-Yes.
-Now it's time to remove the bricks.
I'm going to use a towel because they're a little slippery, and they're obviously hot.
-Yes.
-So we'll take these off.
There we go.
This is the hardest part of the whole recipe, flipping it over.
-Okay.
Should I stand back?
-No, but I do like using two tongs.
-Okay.
-Because I like to put one on either side, and then you just flip it over.
Ohh.
-Well done.
-And you can see all the juices, and some of that fat has started to render out of the chicken.
It's not cooked through, though.
-Obviously, yes.
-It needs another 15 to 20 minutes back in the oven.
-Okay.
-I'm not going to put the bricks back on.
The skin is pretty tender.
You put them back on, it would just rip it all up.
-Okay.
♪♪ [ Laughing ] Oh!
-Ohh.
-Every time you open this oven, it gets better and better.
-It's true.
Look at that beauty.
-Mmm.
-Now we're going to temp it to see if it's done cooking.
-Okay.
-Now, unusual temperature for this chicken.
150 in the breast.
-That is not anywhere close to the usual 160.
-Yeah, usually, we say white meat, 160 to 165.
But for this, we're going to do 150, because it was cooked kind of under extreme circumstances, some extreme heat.
Oh, on the nose.
151.
Perfect.
So, this chicken is going to continue to cook as it rests for 20 minutes.
And it'll rise to the perfect temperature and won't be overcooked.
-Alright.
-So, we're going to get this out of the skillet.
This has to rest 20 minutes uncovered, because we want that skin to stay good and crisp.
-Okay.
-While this rests, we're going to make a quick sauce.
-Alright.
-So, this is 2 tablespoons of fresh lemon juice, 1 tablespoon of chopped fresh parsley, 1 1/2 teaspoons of chopped fresh rosemary, 1 1/2 teaspoons of grated fresh lemon zest, little bit of Dijon, 1 1/2 teaspoon, one minced garlic clove, and 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes and black pepper.
So this is like a little vinaigrette, right?
-It's exactly like a little vinaigrette.
-Yeah.
But watch what I'm going to do.
-Yes.
-I'm going to take all the juices from this skillet.
-Mm-hmm.
-All that chicken broth.
-Yes.
-And we're going to add it right to the vinaigrette.
-That's the oil for your vinaigrette.
-Ohh.
-It's schmaltz.
-It's schmaltz.
But also, the heat is cooking the garlic a little bit.
It's bringing out the aromas in the black pepper.
Let it sit.
Let those flavors marry while the chicken rests, and then we can eat.
-And how long?
-20 minutes.
-Okay.
♪♪ -Carving a butterflied chicken is so easy.
-Yes.
-All you have to do, almost just ask the legs to come off, and they just -- they just oblige.
-Yes.
-You barely need a knife.
So, to separate the thigh from the drumstick, you want to cheat on the drumstick side.
That's how you can go right through the bone.
-Nice.
-Yep.
Ohh.
There you go.
For the breast, I'm just going to cut it right in half.
Now I'm just going to cut each piece right in half.
-Alright.
Right through the bone.
-Right through the bone.
Someone gets a wing.
-Mmm.
-Mm-hmm.
-That someone is me.
-Yes, it is.
I mean, that's just gorgeous.
-That's beautiful.
-Isn't it?
You know what?
I'm going to give you a little of both, just so you can sample the dark meat and the white meat.
-Nice.
-I'm going to do the same for myself.
Now for the sauce.
-Mm-hmm.
-Oh, yeah.
-Oh, beautiful.
-Mm-hmm.
And it's been sitting there, and those flavors have melded.
I'm going to give you extra.
It's that good.
-[ Whistles ] [ Laughs ] Best dinner ever.
-Look at this.
-Right?
-This is what I picture dinner looking like at your house.
-Yes.
-Every day.
-Every week, at least.
-Every week, at least.
-I roast a chicken a week.
-Oh, I know you do.
-Mmm.
Oh.
That is just so good.
That sauce is amazing, isn't it?
-I can see why you talk about roast chicken all the time.
-Yeah, right?
-This is so juicy.
The flavor of the schmaltz has gone into every little bit of that chicken skin.
-Mm-hmm.
-And I think that is a flavor that's often lost, because it all goes into the bottom of the pan.
-Yep.
-You infused it back into the sauce.
-Yeah.
And the chicken has real flavor because we seasoned under the skin.
-Beautifully seasoned.
-Oh.
-Super crisp.
-Mm-hmm.
-Well rendered.
Sometimes that's even more important.
You know you really do make the best roast chicken every time?
-Oh, thank you.
That is such a compliment.
-She knows what she's talking about, folks, and you definitely want to make this recipe at home.
And it starts by weighing down a butterflied chicken with bricks in a skillet.
Remove the chicken from the oven at 150 degrees and allow it to rest, and turn those beautiful pan juices into a flavorful vinaigrette.
So, from "America's Test Kitchen" via Italy and the fabulous Julia, it's pollo al mattone.
-Little extra sauce?
-Yes, please!
-Never hurt anyone.
-Except the chicken.
-[ Chuckles ] ♪♪ -If you open a bottle of wine but you don't drink it all, the most basic way to try to preserve what's left over is to shove the cork back in the bottle, and at most, you'll get a day, maybe two, before the wine starts to turn.
But there are lots of gadgets on the market that claim to save that leftover wine for up to a month, and Hannah's here to tell us more.
-We tested a bunch of different wine savers that promise to make your bottles last longer.
-Mm.
-We tested nine different ones.
There was a huge range in prices, $5 all the way up to $200.
-Whoa.
-Yes.
Wine not included.
-Yeah.
That's a serious investment.
-It is, it is.
But, you know, sometimes wine is, as well.
-That's true.
-So, we tested the full gamut.
We found some great winners, and we found some other stuff.
-[ Laughs ] -You know?
Go ahead and pick that up, and squeeze the bunch of grapes.
Very cute.
-Oh!
-It's interesting.
This model can sort of work.
It displaces the oxygen inside the bottle.
-Oxygen is the enemy.
-Oh.
Yeah.
-As it expands, it removes the oxygen.
So it can work, but it won't work if it pops.
-Oh, did it pop?
-Yeah.
-Oh.
-Yeah.
So -- -Someone got a little aggressive with the pumping?
-Not even.
Regular use.
-Oh, really?
-Oh, no.
-Yes.
This is going to be in a landfill when it pops, so not for us.
-Right.
-We need something a little better.
-Mm-hmm.
-We're not at better yet.
We're at weirder.
Okay, so, this one right here, there is a little packet of substance in this cork.
It's an iron-based scavenger.
-Scavenger?
-Scavenger.
-Oh, it sounds like -- like a microorganism.
-Yeah.
Think of it that way, a little thing that's going to go through and neutralize the oxygen.
I'll show you how it works.
-So there's a little pull tab.
-You peel it off, and you really want to put it in right away to capture all of that jazz in there.
-Alright.
There we go.
-Okay?
Boom.
-Right, so in theory, this wine is preserved.
But if you take it out, can you reuse it, or is it a one-time-use gadget?
-It's a one-time-use thing.
-Oh, no, that's not cool.
-Right.
'Cause then in your next time, well, you have to decide, am I -- am I drinking all this, or am I wasting some of it?
Again, you're back at square one, right?
-Is this bottle good enough for the one-time use?
-Exactly.
-Yeah.
-Also, nor did it work that well at keeping wine fresh, so, you know, there's that, too.
-Alright.
Thumbs down.
-The most basic and common styles use vacuum to pull out the oxygen to keep the wine more fresh.
There are two styles, manual and electric.
We have them right here.
We tested the range of them.
Here are three manual... -Mm-hmm.
-...and here are two electric right here.
-Okay.
-One model is cordless, one you plug in.
-Mm.
Okay.
-Between electric and manual, which would you guess that we preferred?
-I imagine electric would be stronger than I would be at pulling out the oxygen, so I'd go electric.
-Yes, that would have been our guess, too, but that's not how it played out in testing.
-No kidding.
-Yes, it's true.
So we, the humans, we won this round.
-[ Laughs ] We're stronger.
-We're stronger.
Yeah.
-I like it.
-Why don't you try this one?
This is from Vacu Vin.
And this, just manual model where you are going to plug it right in there.
Yep.
-Alright.
And this goes on top.
-Pop that on top.
-And then you -- -Mm-hmm.
When it gets too hard to pull it up is when the vac-- Oh.
Oh, my gosh.
-I go to the gym.
-Guys, this -- You guys might want to take lunch.
This will take a while.
-No, that's pretty hard.
-Yeah.
No, we're at it now.
Yeah.
Yeah, exactly.
So not too -- not too long.
-No.
-And you're done.
So this goes in the fridge now.
And, you know, usually, they come with several corks.
So you need a cork for each bottle, but, like, this is reusable as many -- And you can buy extras of the silicone corks.
-I like this.
-Yeah.
[ Air hisses ] -Ooh.
-Ooh.
You could hear that.
I really created a vacuum in there.
-Yes.
Yes.
You created a vacuum.
-Okay.
-Alright.
Now let's have you try an electric model.
Let's do the corded one.
-So same theory here.
You put the rubber stopper in.
-Mm-hmm.
-So this is an opener and -- -Yep, there's definitely a lot going on with this model.
-Okay.
So you just put it on there.
-We can hear it working, right?
-Yep.
-[ Device buzzing quietly ] Well, it's pretty easy.
-It's not faster.
-And it's going.
-Okay, okay.
-Okay.
There we go.
Let's see if it hisses.
No hiss, so I'm not convinced that it actually sealed as well.
-Yes, and we saw that in testing, and then it bore out in the tastings afterwards.
You could really taste the difference when the full, maximum amount possible of oxygen wasn't pulled out of the bottle.
-Right.
-Yeah.
So we're still stronger.
Alright, let's try one more model over here.
It's a bit of an outlier, a unique model from a brand called Coravin.
-Okay.
-Yes, so this is the cork.
Go ahead and put that in there first.
-Alright.
-The Coravin, this is their base model.
There are several different ones.
-Okay.
-This promises a month, keeping your wine fresh for a month.
-Ooh.
-That's pretty cool.
-It's pretty long, right?
It does so using capsules of argon gas... -Mm-hmm.
-...an inert gas that displaces the oxygen inside.
And we actually found it really works.
-Oh, really?
-Mm-hmm.
Put that right through there all the way down till you feel it click.
-Alright.
-Yep.
There you go.
So now, boom, it's on there.
The gas is released.
-Really?
-There was -- There was a capsule in the chamber.
And you can keep it on there and pour at will.
-Oh, is that what this little spout is?
-Exactly.
You press this button when you're ready to pour.
Let's pour a little bit.
Let's go over here.
-Alright.
-Use this glass.
There you go.
This is a fresh bottle.
We just opened this today.
-Alright.
That's pretty easy.
-Yeah.
Reasonably fast, right?
-But it also has this, so my guess is you could take this out and cap it.
-For deeper storage.
-Okay.
-You want to put that bottle in the fridge.
You want to put it somewhere else.
You want to seal several bottles at once.
Yeah, but one thing to remember is you have the entry price of the device, and then you have the ongoing price of the argon capsules.
-If you're investing in some really expensive wines and your cellar is worth a lot, it might be worth it.
-This is for a unique individual, and it really solves that problem.
This is the base model.
Other models promised up to six months.
-Wow.
-So it's very -- it's interesting stuff.
And we found, you know, in our -- in our testing, this model really did work.
-Ah.
Interesting.
-This is $200.
-Okay.
-Yes.
-But there's a best buy?
-There's a best buy.
Great news.
Vacu Vin, this model right here, it's classic, been an industry leader for a long time.
-Mm-hmm.
-Great.
You invest in this, and you can buy, you know, different ones of these.
Usually, they come with one or two.
You can buy as many as you want.
And it's a great way to keep wine for up to a week, which is plenty of time.
But, Julia, with wine, the proof is in the taste of it.
-Very true.
-So we have a fun little experiment over here.
We removed some wine a month ago from this bottle right here and preserved it with the Coravin.
So this is a month old.
-Wow.
-Took some wine out, preserved it.
I want to see what you think of it.
-Same wine, same vintage, same label.
-Same wine, same vintage.
We have a brand-new bottle just opened today to compare this to, and this was preserved a month ago.
-Alright.
Wow.
First wine.
This is the fresh one.
-Mm-hmm.
-Delicious.
It's pretty close.
-Really?
-It's pretty close.
-You're -- I know you're -- you're a wine person.
You worked in wine.
You know your stuff.
So you think it's pretty close?
-Yeah.
It's very close.
It's not exactly like a fresh opened bottle, but for a month old, it's still -- it's still potable.
I would never believe this is a month-old bottle that's been opened.
-Right?
Right.
-That's impressive.
-Mm-hmm.
So, we have a lot of great options here.
-If you want to invest in a wine saver, check out the Vacu Vin Original Wine Saver at just $20.
Or if you want to spend a little more and have your wine last for up to a month, check out the Coravin Pivot Plus Wine Preservation System at around $200.
♪♪ Scarpaccia is a simple, rustic Italian tart, and there's two distinct styles.
There's a sweet style called scarpaccia dolce, and it's flavored with sugar and vanilla.
And then, there's the savory style called scarpaccia salata, and it's flavored with Parmesan, onions, and often zucchini.
And that's the style that Aran's going to show us how to make today.
-That's right, Julia.
We're going to make the scarpaccia that is somewhere between a crispy pancake and a flatbread.
The trick is going to be to thinly slice the zucchini.
-Okay.
-That's going to make it be very tender inside.
And then, the cornmeal, the Parmesan, and the rice flour is going to make it crispy on the outside.
So, we're going to use a mandoline... -Mm-hmm.
-...to thinly -- It's going to be paper-thin, that, when you hold it, it kind of almost would bend.
-Okay.
-Oftentimes when you work with a mandoline... -Mm-hmm.
-...it comes with a guard.
-Yep.
-I'm not going to use it, just because the zucchini itself is almost like a guard.
-Exactly.
-And so -- But again, be careful when working with mandolines.
Let me just show you real quick how thin it is.
-Oh, yeah.
-You see it kind of is a little floppy.
-Yep.
-So that's what we want.
Now we're going to slice half a sweet onion.
-Okay.
-The slices need to be very thin, also, 1/16 inch or so.
-Okay.
-But in this case, I'm going to cut it using a chef's knife.
I find cutting onions with a mandoline is very awkward... -It is.
-...and slippery, so I'd rather not go there.
Also, onions tend to soften faster than zucchini, so I am not worried that it's not going to cook.
This onion is also going to go into the bowl with the zucchini, and we're going to season it with 1 1/2 teaspoons of table salt.
And it's going to soften them.
And it's also going to release a lot of its moisture.
So, this is going to sit for about 15 minutes or so.
Now we're going to make our batter.
We have 3/4 cup of white rice flour.
-Oh.
-This is actually superfine white rice flour.
-Mm-hmm.
Mm-hmm.
-You can actually use stone ground white rice flour.
-Oh, interesting.
-Usually, the package tells you if it's stone ground or finely milled.
-Mm-hmm.
-When it's stone ground, it's a little bit more coarse.
-Oh.
-So it tends to be a little bit grittier in your bite when you feel it in your -- as you're eating it.
So I find the superfine is a little bit more gooey when you make your batter, but it is a little bit harder to find sometimes.
-Gotcha.
-So, to this, we're going to add 1 cup of shredded Parmesan.
-So you shredded it, looks like, on the large holes of a box grater.
-Exactly.
-Okay.
-And then 1/2 cup of stone-ground cornmeal.
This is going to make it super crispy.
Then we're going to add 1 1/2 teaspoons of dried oregano.
-Mm-hmm.
-And 1/2 teaspoon of black pepper.
Give this a stir.
And then we're going to come back to it when the zucchini is ready.
♪♪ It's been 15 minutes, and look how much water it's collected on the bottom.
-That's a lot of liquid.
-We're going to strain these.
-Okay.
-And we have a strainer lined with a cheesecloth here.
And we're going to collect all this beautiful liquid that we're going to use to make a batter with.
Okay.
So gather all the edges.
I always find this part to be really fun.
See it come out.
-[ Chuckles ] -So, we're going to reserve the zucchini, and we're actually going to measure 7 tablespoons of this liquid into our dry ingredients.
-And if you didn't have enough liquid, what would you do?
-Just add a little bit more water.
-Makes sense.
-It's so beautiful.
-It really is.
-Then we're going to add two eggs that are lightly whisked and 1/4 cup of extra virgin olive oil.
And then just whisk everything together until you have a pancake batter.
And if it feels a little bit dry, you can add a little bit more of the water.
And we have extra so that wouldn't be a problem.
I feel like this is perfect.
-Okay.
-So let's fold in our zucchini and onions.
We are -- Here they are.
-Those onions really wilted down.
-Yes.
-That's incredible.
Just 15 minutes.
-It's gonna actually make it kind of creamy inside.
-Mmm.
-So, we have a 13x9 pan, baking pan, that is lined with a parchment sling.
And we're going to spread this batter all over.
-Great.
-Alright.
We're going to fold our parchment edges down.
-Oh, I've done that where you put it in the oven without doing that, and they fall into what's baking, and they get baked in.
-So, we're going to put it in a preheated 400-degree oven.
-Mm-hmm.
-And it's going to bake for about 35 to 40 minutes until crispy and golden.
-Okay.
Middle rack?
-Middle rack.
-Alright.
Let me get the door for you.
♪♪ -Mmm.
-That is gorgeous.
-I smell the Parmesan.
-Mm-hmm.
-Smells so good.
Alright, let's check for doneness.
I'm going to gently touch it, 'cause it's hot.
And what we're looking for is something that feels springy, almost when you touch a cake, and it's set.
You know that it's not liquid underneath.
-Yep.
-And that's how this one feels.
I'm also going to do a scraping test, 'cause it's just very satisfying to hear it.
-[ Laughs ] -Okay.
-[ Knife scraping quietly ] -Oh, yeah.
-Hear how crispy it is?
-Oh, yeah.
-[ Knife scraping quietly ] -Yes.
That's beautiful.
We're going to remove it using our parchment sling.
We're going to wait 5 minutes for it to cool so it sets.
-Okay.
-The scarpaccia has been cooling for about 5 minutes.
-Mmm.
-And we're going to take it off the parchment.
And, so, I'm going to cut it into -- Let's see.
I'm going to cut it into 12 pieces.
-Okay.
-Can't wait for you to taste it.
-Mmm.
-Okay.
Here we go.
-Alright.
-I'm going to give you a corner.
-Oh, is the corner a winning piece?
-Crispy.
I'm going to give you two pieces.
-Oh, thank you.
-Yes.
And this one.
Would you like some aioli?
-Ooh, yeah.
So this is how you'd serve it if it were an appetizer.
-Exactly.
-Mmm.
-With a nice, chilled glass of wine.
-This looks like good homemade aioli.
Really easy to make.
You can find the recipe on our website.
Mmm!
Tastes like summer.
-Mmm.
-You can taste the zucchini, the onions, the Parmesan.
And the texture -- thin, crisp, creamy in the middle.
-It has even a little bit like a bready texture, even though there really isn't any bread in it.
-Yeah, it's gluten-free, isn't it?
-It is gluten-free.
-If you want to make Aran's wonderful zucchini scarpaccia, start by salting thinly sliced zucchini and onion and let it sit for 15 minutes.
Squeeze out the vegetable liquid and add it to a rice flour batter.
Bake it until it's super crisp in a 400-degree oven.
From "America's Test Kitchen," a terrific recipe for gluten-free zucchini scarpaccia.
You can find this recipe and all the recipes from this season, along with our product reviews and select episodes, at our website, americastestkitchen.com/tv.
I see you wanting to pick it up with your fingers.
-Yes, I'm going to go with my hands.
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